(click on pictures for enlarged view-third picture shows short thumb method)
Twin Rib Fingerless Mittens/Wrist Warmers
with Matching Headband
by Dawn Adcock
Pattern also available as a PDF file to print here: Dawn's Dream Designs Free Patterns
Materials:
Worsted Weight Wool (one 3.5 oz/100 gram skein of 200 yards was plenty)
Size 4 (US) double point needles
2 stitch markers
small bit of spare waste yarn
Gauge: about 7 sts = 1” done in 1X1 ribbing, and 6 sts = 1" in Twin Rib stitch, unstretched
Size: Adult sized. Arm length can be adjusted by working more or less rows before starting the thumb gusset, and hand length can be adjusted by working more or less rows after the thumb stitch divide. The gusset length measures 2.5" long, so adjust length above and below to your wishes.
Length as written is 8.5" long.
The Twin Rib stitch is very stretchy and accommodates various widths. The arm and hand sections measure 7" around when unstretched, and up to about 10" stretched.
Abbreviation: M1 increase is done by lifting the running thread between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle, waiting to be worked, and twisting it to either the left or the right at you put it on the left needle, then knit this new stitch twisted. I mirror the M1 increases on each side of the thumb gusset to make a symmetrical increase line going up each side of the thumb.
Instructions:
CO 42, dividing onto double point needles, joining into round, being careful not to twist sts at join. (For ease in working twin rib, distribute stitches in multiples of 6 on each needle.)
K1, P1 rib for 6 rounds
Begin main pattern (twin rib):
Rnd 1: K3, P3 around
Rnd 2: K1, P1 around
Repeat these two rounds 10 times total (26 total rounds completed since the beginning)
Thumb gusset: On a Round 1, begin to increase for thumb:
K3, P3, place marker, M1, K1, P1, K1, M1, place marker, P3, then continue to finish the round in K3, P3….
Next round do the K1, P1 round (to continue in the established pattern), BUT making sure to do the thumb gusset stitches between the markers in the established 1X1 ribbing columns at all times (no increases on this round).
Repeat these two rounds, doing the M1 increase on the inside of the markers on every K3, P3 round (in other words, every other round) until there are 19 thumb gusset stitches (all in 1X1 ribbing) between the markers, for a total count of 58 stitches.
On next round, (1X1 rib round), rib up to the first marker, place 19 thumb stitches on spare waste yarn, cast on 3 stitches (I do a backward loop cast on), and continue to do the 1X1 ribbing around. (See note at end for alternate thumb option.)
Repeat Rnd 1 and Rnd 2, 7 times more (14 rounds after taking thumb gusset stitches off).
K1, P1 rib for 6 rounds. Cast off evenly (not too tightly) in rib pattern.
Thumb: Put 19 thumb stitches on needles, then do the first round, in 1X1 ribbing to match, to the hand side and pick up 5 stitches on the cast on hand edge. (That is, 3 on the cast on stitches, plus one each side of them, in each “corner”, to help fill in the holes on each side.) 1X1 rib for 4 more rounds, then cast off, in rib. Weave in ends, being sure to snug up any loose areas in the thumb corners.
Make second one to match!
Note for Short Thumb: If you don't wish to fiddle around with the longer thumb knit after the main body, just cast-off the thumb gusset stitches instead of placing them on a spare piece of yarn, and continue on to complete that round, then cast on the 3 stitches on the hand on the next round. They would be quicker this way, and be just slightly different than the original. Either way they will still keep the hands warm, so the choice is yours, (as it always is with knitting)!
OR More specifically:
When you have all the thumb gusset stitches increased (19 gusset sts between your markers), work one more round of plain K1, P1 rib. Then, on the next K3, P3 round, simply bind off the 19 gusset sts that are between your markers (instead of putting them on scrap yarn for working later). Then finish working this round as usual. On the next round, when you get to the spot where you bound off the thumb stitches, to help minimize the "gap" that can occur at the joining spot, work the next two rounds as follows:
Pick up one stitch from the first cast off stitch of the thumb stitches, then pick up one stitch from the last cast off stitch of the thumb stitches. You now have added back 2 of the 3 stitches that you need (3 stitches to match the stitches used at the base of the gusset sts). Finish working this round in pattern. On the following round, work up to where you picked up these two stitches, knit the first picked up stitch, then do a M1 using the running strand connecting the two picked up sts, then knit the next picked up stitch. The M1 will help tighten the loose strand between these picked up sts, and make the neatest possible "bridge" over the thumb join area.
(This alternate thumb idea of binding off the thumb is based on Joan Hamer's version posted to the KnitList on 12/17/01-Thanks Joan! See digest 724 of the KL's digest archives for her pattern if you are a KL member-message #13656 here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knitlist/ )
© 2001 by Dawn Adcock. You may copy and share this pattern for personal, non-commercial use, as long as this copyright notice remains intact. Please do not post to the internet, include on a website, or republish without prior permission. E-mail: dawn@3gcs.com
Twin Rib Headband
(to match fingerless mittens, above)
(click on photo for larger view)
Materials:
Knit with matching yarn of fingerless mittens (worsted weight wool), small amount, approx 60 yds.
Size 4 (US) needles (I used the same double point needles, just using 2 of the set, to knit flat-back and forth)
Gauge: about 7 sts = 1” done in 1X1 ribbing, and 6 sts = 1" in Twin Rib stitch, unstretched
Size: Adult sized, 21" circumference, but fully adjustable to any size/width. 3" deep, top to bottom (as worn)
Extra simple to knit! Knit flat, and sewn (or grafted) into circle when done.
Instructions:
Cast on 21 sts.
Row 1: *K3, P3*, rep between ** until 3 sts remain, end K3.
Row 2: *P1, K1*, rep between ** until 1 st remains, end P1.
Repeat these two rows until piece measures 21" long, or until length desired for fitting around circumference of head of the intended wearer. For best fit, piece should be stretched slightly when measuring for fit, so that the band won't be loose and slip off.
Bind off. Sew cast on and bind off edges together to form circle. If you wish to make this seamless, use a provisional (temporary/waste yarn) cast on. Don't bind off final row. Undo provisional cast on and graft live stitches to stitches of last row.
© 2005 by Dawn Adcock. You may copy and share this pattern for personal, non-commercial use, as long as this copyright notice remains intact. Please do not post to the internet, include on a website, or republish without prior permission. E-mail: dawn@3gcs.com